Windows and door

windows

Installed all the windows and the door.  They may not be level, but i don’t care.  They work and that is all that matters.

The weather has not been cooperating with me. Too cold and wet to put on the first layer of the roof.  I did find some cheap wood siding.  Not sure how nice it will look, but it will be better looking than vinyl.

Working on the interior until the siding comes at the end of the month or the weather warms up so I can put on a roof.  Also ordered the flue for the wood stove.

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Closing it in

Well, It’s not square.  I added the sheathing and the roof decking (same thing).  The roof has gaps between the decking.  I intend to use metal flashing to bridge those for support and to round the edges.  The walls also have a couple gaps, but I think I will take strips of sheathing and bridge the gaps from the inside.

One window in the loft to frame, then a roof and then siding.  After all that I can spend the next couple months working on making the inside livable.

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4 walls and starting on the roof

Wanted to secure the 4th wall before doing the roof, but ran into some more trouble. My walls are only 80.5″ high from the floor. A normal door requires an opening of 82.5″ and that doesn’t count the Header or the frame. In order for this to work I had to know exactly how much overhead room the roof trusses were going to give me. So I built them first.

I used a half circle on the floor and measured everything out with 45 degree angles and math. Built a quick jig to get the angles drawn right and then ruff cut a couple pieces. After I had a truss sitting snug together, I took my table saw and laid the angle flush against the blade, set the guide to cut the angle (21 or 22 degrees) and ran a couple through. I rechecked them and the results were good, so know I am cutting all of them right off the table saw.

Couldn’t find any nail plates for joining the trusses, so I am taking the extra time to build my own out of leftover ½” plywood.  I am placing the plywood on both sides of the joint and trimming it close to the truss, in order to make life easier when I am doing the interior.

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3 Walls up

3 walls up

Put the third wall up on my day off and put hurricane straps on all the studs.  I started putting studs up for the loft and it feels like there will be a lot of head room.  It started snowing, so I had to wrap everything up until I get back from my work trip.

2 of my 9 windows were delivered broken so I took them back and ordered 2 more.  I plan to put up the sheathing before I put up the last outer wall.

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1 wall up

Spent Friday evening fixing the floor and securing it to the trailer.  Spent Saturday finishing the Sub Floor and moved the trailer to the front of the yard, so that when I am done it isn’t stuck between low trees.

Saturday afternoon I started on my first wall.  I got to the part where I needed to frame windows and it started raining.  I got back on it this evening (Sunday).  I framed the windows and attached it to the trailer with some Hurricane straps and a few nails.

I have learned that toe nailing is difficult and window frames should be put in after the wall is up in order to keep them square.  I plan to have the next wall up Monday evening and spend all day Wednesday making the third wall.

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Ran into some trouble with the design already.

First I realized the width was too narrow for what I wanted.  I looked the trailer over and decided that the welded steel used for holding the tie down straps in place, should be strong enough to support the walls.  I started building the foundation for the walls on the welded steel and plan to attach the sub-floor and hurricane straps to keep it in place.  I also used treated wood because it is outside the original frame.

Second, I woke up this morning and suddenly realized I haven’t secured the floor to the trailer yet and that I need to lay plastic on top the trailer and under the floor to act in the same way the Tyvek does on a wall. (It just takes a while for things to sink into my head.)  The plan than is to remove the floor from the trailer, cut the hole for the Grey Water drain, lay plastic, re-attach floor, and nail floor to trailer.  Then it’s time to start attaching a few hurricane straps.

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Framing the floor


It’s been a productive weekend.  I drove to Virginia Saturday and picked up the trailer.  There is a 3.5″ edge around the trailer bed and a roll bar on the front that I wasn’t expecting.  I used a hand held grinder to remove the roll bar and painted over the bare metal.

With the edge in the way, I had to nail the floor together off the trailer and then drop it inside.  I managed to lay down a good bit of the insulation and then ran out.  I realize now that I needed 3 rolls of R-13.  I can’t cover the floor right away, because I do have a little bit of plumbing to do for my sink and shower.

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Trailer is on it’s way

Windows  –           $ 875

Water system –   $ 610

Trailer -               $3100 + (tags and title)

Wood Stove –      $ 650 + (flue)

I’m realizing that a lot of these homes I have seen are built to run on a water source and septic.  It would be cheaper to put plumbing in the house and not have a fresh water tank, pump, sewage tank or composting toilet.

I have also noticed that small windows are expensive, because they are considered custom.  I searched some local warehouses/surplus stores and they didn’t even carry the small stuff.  So I went with the smallest insulated windows I could find at the local store.

If all goes well, I plan to start building this weekend and then I have to wait for the windows to arrive sometime next month.

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Update

Still waiting on my trailer to be ready to pick up inVirginia, and so I have been doing more research.  Found a composting toilet that can handle travel, and for $700 cheaper than it is listed by the manufacturer.  The problem is that it will need a 110V source to keep it working efficiently and it is only really designed for 1 adult and 1 child.  Further research suggests that just means emptying it more, but with a full time job 2 Adults shouldn’t be a problem, or just go outside.

Went looking for the cost of windows and found that if it’s not a standard size then it’s not worth the price tag, but the nice guy at the store suggested a warehouse up the street that sells overstock and discontinued for less.  I need the windows before I am ready to put up the walls so that I can have the best outcome.

Decided that I am better off with a wood stove for heat and already have obtained the heat shields I will need to protect the walls and floor around the stove.  I found out that buying a pre made floor covering for the stove is $400 and up, but I can’t imagine building one would cost me more than $40; probably $20.

I am still researching what I will need for a fresh water system and if I really want a water heater.  For those of you that would suggest a solar heater; I don’t generally or have time to take a shower during the day.

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I was looking over showers to see how big they are.  Everything that came as a kit had low ratings, because they cracked and leaked.  Sounds like it will be smarter to build it myself.

Found a little wood stove at a local dealer that would do nicely, but after reading the user manual, I changed my mind.  http://vermontcastings.com/family/Stoves/Non-Catalytic/Aspen/   The stove would have to be distanced so far from the wall that it would take up half the room.

A propane heater and single burner stove will be cheaper than a wood stove and lighter and safer.  http://www.boatownersworld.com/dickinsonmarine/propane_fireplaces_p12000.htm

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